Tailor Made

Before we dive into the complex world of men's shirts, I figured a few ground rules should be laid out as a guide to help our fashionable followers through some of the basics.

First things first, its time to get a tailor. The days of half size or big dress shirts or pants are over, it’s time to perfect that clean cut look on a whole new level. And this isn't limited to formal wear either. Casual wear such as jeans and everyday dress shirts sometimes need that extra snip for the form fitting look. I understand the idea can be a little scary, most people are unsure of what exactly a tailor can do for them. I will admit I was a bit nervous on my first trip, but a good tailor can take a good garment and turn it into a great one. I will not take the time to explain every sizing detail from big to small, but you should understand that most of us are not cut exactly to the mold of your normal off the rack shirt. Tailors are the magical men who are able to fix most of your apparel sizing problems, and the best part is they are anxious to do so. Unfortunately, not every tailor is worth his yardage, so here are a few things to find out from a tailor before you trust your most important garments to their scissors.

1. DO NOT be afraid to ask questions. It is your clothing, make sure it is done the way you want it. This should also apply to your tailors capabilities, odds are they have been asked to do everything under the sun already, so whatever you have in mind should be no surprise.
2. Ask for references. Any tailor worth his salt will have a strong list of clients willing to answer some questions for you about their work.
3. Ask for samples. Consider your tailor an artist. Look at the work he has done and decide for yourself if they are someone you can work with, match your tailors style with your own.
4. Work with your tailor. The best tailors simply provide the look you are aiming for, while adding their two cents in the process. They will be vocal but not demanding, they will listen to what you want (even if you are not sure) and lead you to the final look. The pathway of communication between you and your tailor should be clear and wide open. NEVER be afraid to tell them if you do not like the direction they are taking you.
5. Get some average pricing and lead times. Sometimes you can afford to wait a week for an alteration, sometimes you remember on Wednesday you need the garment on Saturday. Know if your tailor is capable of turning out emergency work, and how much all of it will cost.

Most of these points are related, but they should be a great start in your world of finely tuned clothes. Warning, tailoring has been known to be addictive. Realizing everything you own is capable of fitting you perfectly can be life altering (zing). This form of addiction is perfectly acceptable and recommended.

Sweater Season

Click here to view where you can buy this cardigan

I found this nice little cardigan by John Varvatos poking around the interwebs. I know what you're thinking, "cardigans are old hat," (fashion pun, hey-o) and I couldn't agree more. However, with cardigans their are so many different styles being played with these days that finding the uniquely dapper one you've been looking for can still be accomplished. I'm liking heavy loose knit this winter. And this loose, pinstripe piping and ribbing gives this piece not only texture but visible comfort. The cut brings the notion of modern day Mr. Rogers with classic John Varvatos attitude. Warm and stylish. Functional and smart.

Click here to view where you can buy this cardigan

Your neckline should be growing and diversifying this winter. It's a great way to mix up your wardrobe and the cut will draw attention to your face. This sweater by Top Man does exactly that without going over the top. You should be able to get a lot of miles out of this sweater, its clean simple design makes it a stable in any man's wardrobe. The fabric construction makes this garment machine washable for low maintenance. You don't need to spend a fortune to find "right" clothing, and this sweater is no different at its moderate price. Couple this with a simple garments and it's perfect for any occasion.

Click here to view where you can buy this cardigan

Tired of all the gray? Spice it up a little with a dash of color this winter. Purple is the new disco. This sweater by Limi Boutique is somewhat louder than what you might be used to as the purple can draw attention, so you are going to have to do some image control when you put it on. Tone it down some with some more conservative counterparts and the overall look will be very flattering. Simple black dress pants, a solid colored shirt, and some casual black dress shoes or boots will have you beating away the winter gray in no time.

Boot Scoot and Boogie

More boots? Yes. There are so many amazing boots out there that are yet to be discovered which is exciting because that means there are plenty of opportunities to find a great pair and set yourself apart from the crowd. Especially in the early brisk weather season when its dry before the nasty wet and cold there are chances to wear modest yet eye catching boots. In the fall and winter months tennis shoes are not only not fashionable but they are non-functioning. Boots are more and more appropriate as they can be stylish and practical.

click here to view where you can buy these boots

These Grizzly Moccasin boots made by Quoddy are the steeped in tradition and quality. Originated in the early 1900's the proprietor prided himself on handmade boots made to order for his dozens, not thousands, of customers. Today the tradition continues and yes the orders they take are limited so get your order in asap. They don't have loads of products (only seven) but what they do have is incredibly nice. I can't say enough about these boots. I personally love them. They're stylish, made to any specifications you desire and a practical boot to wear in slushy snow you might encounter as they're water proof and rugged enough to endure the harsh weather. Also, I hadn't been on their site in a while and just noticed their new boots, Deck boot, which I'm definitely digging. Take a peek at the Deck Boot.

click here to view where you can buy these boots

Alright, I know what you're thinking? Suede, in the winter and in a light color no less? Well, not quite. The reason I'm into these Clark Desert boot Originals is due to their traditional and classic design. Modeled after the boots worn by British officers in world War II these simple and surprisingly comfortable boots offer an everyday refined yet casual boot. The light color offers a great contrast to the dominated trend of dark jeans. With a crepe sole and soft suede this boot is easy on your feet all day long. The best quality in this particular color (sand suede) may be its potential downfall as its color, which will make your feet pop against dark jeans, leaves you vulnerable to dirt. You will only gain a nod of respect if you keep your boots clean. Suede is labor intensive but if cared for properly offer a unique style.


Now, some of you might be noticing that a lot of these boots are expensive. Yes, I agree, but understand that buying a pair of boots that are of high quality and style last a long time and I think you will notice that its quality, style, compliments and confidence it provides you, just as any piece of stylish clothing does, will more than compensate for the extra hundred dollars you spend. I'm sure everyone knows this but I will state it for redundancy: It is important to care for your boots to ensure a lasting wear. There's no bigger crime than spending a lot of money on an item and seeing it deteriorate due to lack of care. The same goes with all clothing. With boots you will want to apply a leather/suede protecting sealent to maintain appearance as long as possible (example here). If the boots are suede purchase a suede cleaning brush to maintain the integrity to your boots (example here). Having the right clothing is a great way to stand apart displaying that you are mature enough to care for yourself, but if you don't care for your clothing it is all for not as it is an extension of how you maintain yourself and will diminish your image. If you're going as far as to get nice clothing you might as well go the distance. Get the clothes, maintain the clothes, gain the respect.

Fall on the Cusp of Winter

The latter months of the year are clearly upon us. What generally comes with Fall and Winter are the typical Earth tones and occasional boisterous color for some extra flash along with darker colors. Fall provides the opportunity to start pulling out old and new crisp weather apparel and try a variety of styles, while winter provides the chance to take a break and maintain the simple, clean and hip look in the daily grind of crappy weather. What do both of these seasons have in common? The chance to wear one of the most important aspects to an outfit:

BOOTS

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Above is just one example of a great pair of boots made by Timberline's Counterpane Collection. A vintage appeal with tarnished leather, hidden stitching and a rustic working mans style that offers a story of a journey these boots have gone on. There are several boots/shoes in the Counterpane Collection that are very nice. Whether you like tall boots or low cut dress shoes this collection has a modern twist on what I believe to be an early 1900's cut of boot/shoe. Enjoy.

Click here to view where you can buy these boots

Redwing's Beckman-Gentleman boot offers a traditional American look. Black cherry featherstone leather with white topstitching, round toe, lace-up, lugged roccia sole, stacked heel and made in the USA damnit. 'nuff said.

Also, there is another pair that peaks my interest in the Redwing Iron Ranger (Hawthorne full grain leather). Pretty sharp. You can find these on the same page as the Beckman through the link above. Another boot in the realm of these are the incredibly sturdy and dignified Wolverine 1000 Mile boot. Take a peek

Click here to view where you can buy these boots

You better wear some dark, slim fitting jeans with these sons of bitches. Distressed smooth leather boot with fold-over leather tongue and a rubber mid and outsole. This boot is not for the faint of heart. This boot has attitude. Worn with the proper attire and you can pull off the rugged look no problem at all. Gotta check out their website: www.bedstu.com some very cool shoes and boots, specifically their Fort boot in Tan Bomber color. Very simple, yet brilliantly made with with distressed leather finish, leather welted outsole and a classic clean look. Maybe you're a biker, maybe you're a badass, I dunno but I do know you will look awesome in them.

What We're All About

As a man there are many responsibilities we have in life that take priority. So its obvious something like dressing well gets thrown by the way side, as it can seem pointless. But, what is dressing well all about really? You'll learn to understand that dressing well doesn't have to be about vanity, over compensation, or social insecurities but rather being true to oneself and knowing ones value.



Bling Bling

A rappers "bling" is an eye catcher no doubt. People will always notice the guy with the giant diamond encrusted Sega Genesis controller around their neck (actual necklace by the way). You could very easily look at any celebrity who spends an exorbitant amount of money on their outfit and flaunts it unabashedly. I'm sure you're thinking of one now. While this sort of display maybe attract a certain crowd, those of us everyday folk don't need those materialistic, shallow swarms. Dressing isn't about demanding attention but rather earning the attention/recognition through a well thought out and clever outfit. You can be subtle in your attempt to gain the interest in your peers. No need to force it.


Don't Over Compensate

Similar to "status outfits," or vanity dressing, are the over compensating dressers. It's the same idea as demanding attention from people. These dressers understand that dressing well is important and so they attempt to find a stylish solution yet over shoot their goal and end up looking foolish. I like to refer to these dressers as the Ed Hardy Boys. That clothing is so obnoxiously loud that I find myself waiting for one of them to scream out, "Look at me!" at any moment. You can earn your desired attention/recognition without seeming like you're trying too hard by dressing sensibly. Clean, simple, traditional yet modern. This may seem like a hard thing to do but its a rule I've lived by and has worked well for me over the years: Never wear clothing that is easily if at all recognizable as a brand. Keep people guessing. You want to set yourself apart from as many people as possible. Again, keep it simple, clean, with a traditional modern spin without overly stating your fashion presence.


Can I Pull This Outfit Off?

Well can you? Some people are insecure with themselves and fear change yet desire it. Someone who is changing their style is no different. When you've worn the same polo and khakis for the past 5 years putting on a leather jacket with tight jeans will of course feel out of place. This is normal. But guess what? You can be whoever you want to be. Your style defines you as a person and says more about you than you and others may even know. What are you telling people with the way you dress? You are a capable man and are worth being taken seriously by others. Your clothes can communicate just that without you even opening your mouth. When you're dressed well you feel confident, when you feel confident your body language exudes that. Research shows that up to 55% of communication is carried out through body language. When dressed well you display an opinion of yourself and how you value yourself. Being well dressed outwardly states (with no words what-so-ever) that you value and care for yourself and appreciate yourself as a person enough so that you take care of how you look.



Now, the transition from start to finish or sweatshirt to leather jacket as I like to describe it, is not always an easy transition which is why I suggest a gradual acclimation. Start small and move up. You're a capable and worthy man and should treat oneself as such. Becoming a well groomed and smartly dressed man will set you apart from the crowd, improve your confidence and at the very least get you some well deserved compliments.

In the posts to come I will be highlighting what I deem great pickups or finds in the fashion realm and hopefully a place where you can pick them up. From Socks to hats I will do my best to find you your next essential article of clothing for your wardrobe. Please feel free to post comments, recommendations or suggestions, and share with your friends. Let the discussion begin.